27 March 2009

Captain´s Log: Some crazy weekends

Two weekends ago I had the divine pleasure of visiting El Borbollón, an eco-tourist volcanic hot spring. Besides forgetting my camera, I did get a real nice sunburn. The water is pea-green, apparently due to all of the salt and sulfur in the water. Besides the constant bubble of the volcanic blow hole, the natural oasis provides the finest volcanic mud I´ve ever seen! Black as coal and finer than sand, this mud is said to have skin-healing powers. I think in the United States it´s called exfoliation. So, I took about nine layers of skin off, but had a most wonderful time and even got invited to temazcal (sweat lodge) for the next full moon. Quite a successful Saturday! Monday was Benito Juarez day here in Mexico, there was no school so I went fishing. Now before I finish, let me elaborate. This lady who sells raspados (bagged sno-cones) invited me to go with her husband, one who they call Camello and his brother Calaco (Camel and Bones, respectively, I still don´t know their real names). She told me that we would go to the dam (I assumed it was the haunted one that´s ten minutes from my house) and to bring shorts and old shoes, not too much to ask. I get to Camello´s house about eight in the morning, we loaded up and were on the way. On the way out of town we pick up three of Camello´s cousins and grab three kilos of tortillas and four liters of water. I soon realize that we weren´t going to the haunted dam as it flew passed my right shoulder. An hour later and we were had long passed the Querétaro state line. We were in the middle of nowhere when stop in a cornfield in front of a living room sized pond, with water barely knee deep (Mexican knee deep, mind you). Calaco and one of his cousins unravel a homemade net and attach two poles made of pendicua (an extremely hard wood, but only after being charred), they affix seven empty coke bottles to the top of the net and jump into the puddle. They commence to span the puddle with the net and drag the net the entire length of the charco. I couldn´t believe my eyes. Why hadn´t I thought of this before. In Michigan my brother and I fish for sport; here in Mexico we fish to eat! By some miracle we were able to bag three juicy mojarra, two carp and a handful of charales (sardine sized fishies). Apparently Calaco and Camello were more interested in eating than bringin' home the bacon! We make a fire, toss the fish in and VOILA!... fish stew. Side note: The fish were gutted and quartered by a most rusty utility knife that Calaco produced from under the seat of his Chevy S-10. The fish were cut into four, and with my luck I got halved heads. Now I regularly don't eat fish, let alone fish heads, but with Calaco marveling at how lucky we were to have caught these beauties, I felt obliged. To be honest the fish wasn't the most disgusting thing I've eaten in my life, but trying to slurp down the broth with the carp looking you in the eye with that nasty boiled black eye sure wins a close second! We dawdled around some more charcos for another few hours before returning home. We ended up back in Temas having only caught one slimy toad (which Calaco and Camello nearly killed each other for.) Although we didn't have the most successful day fishing, Calacos wife certainly ate a hearty toad dinner! Phew! What a weekend, oh wait, I almost forgot to tell you about THIS weekend. It turns out that my adopted cousin Deniss turned fifteen on Saturday. You might say "big whoop fifteen years old," as I most certainly did. It's Mexican tradition (if the funds are available) to throw a big fiesta to honor the coveted fifteenth birthday. I've been to three of these parties so far, which were a good time: mole, dancing, drinking, and then to bed. Well this was no exception. The only catch was that it was on the other side of Mexico City. The trip was two hours by bus, two by metro, another hour by micro (Volkswagen bus taxis, with about 20 people packed tight) and another fifteen minutes by bici-taxi (bicycle rickshaws) and we were there. The party was thrown perhaps the most depressing place I have ever been to: Chimalhuacan., Edo. de Mexico. Home to some 500,000 desperate people, the town looks like an urban shantytown, each dusty street looks the same with the same drug-addicts and drunks, thieves and soiled doves. Some of the hired wait staff even opted to stay at the event site during the night, as many are robbed of their tuxedos just going home. So here we are four suited gents and two gowned ladies in the middle of the anus of Mexico. The good thing was that nothing happened to us in this most lawless of cities. We get to the giant circus tent and take a seat among the 500+ guests. Carnitas, rice, cactus salad, beer, tequila, fruit salad and finally a 200lb. birthday cake (that cost $800USD!) to top off the buffet. My cousin danced with dancers amidst fireworks and mariachis. Then the party started. The famous Sonido Pancho and the cumbia hit-makers Sonora Dinamita had been contracted to make the party bump. I don't know if it was the long ride, that the beers had run out, or so much dancing but I called it quits at 4:00am. Sonora Dinamita was still playing and the foam party had yet to commence. We took another bici-taxi to a most dingy hotel (I had to ask for new pillows because of all of the rat-chewed holes,) with no electricity and a room service menu that offered three types of condoms. They charged $12USD for the night. We awoke that morning and went to my aunt's house for breakfast. We ate a most delicious breakfast of sesos (beef brains) quesadillas and fresh-squeezed tangerine juice, and were on our way. Let's just say that Monday I had a hard time getting up for work.

24 March 2009

Captain's Log: Now you hear from me...

Sorry about the Houdini act I just pulled. You see, I've been quite busy with the job, travels and the rigors of living without water. I leave you with this crazy carved Mayan head, from the Natural History Museum at Chapultepec in Mexico City. Not to worry (if you even were) I´m fine. Apparently this is a dangerous country to live in?! I saw the first images of the Prophet Obama tonight. Actually, it was the first English language media (besides some terrible techno in a disco in Toluca) that I'd heard in over three months. Can´t quite say that it was the happiest news with all of this border violence. I only caught the tail end of the brief as I was eating some tacos, but it sounds like things remain crazy amd are getting crazier. There definatly one American influence all over Mexico - dollars. Just driving through rural Mexico state, you see two-storied mansions in the middle of nowhere just waiting to be finished. Most of the large businesses around have been open with sent dollars. Since I don´t have a t.v. (nor want one) I really have no idea whats going on in the world. I had the pleasure of going to the most unpleasurable Chimalhuacán over the weekend and the tabloids only spoke of more narco violence. Kids are kidnapped from schools, dudes cut up and left in traffic, to name a few. It gets better, one of the giant houses in front of where I live belongs to some locked up narco, who had some neighborhood family holed up down the block. Not to worry, this was long before I blew into town (three months). Since they found the family, the security has been heightened: More cops with machine guns roaming the valley in pickups. I was stopped and searched the other day when I was walking home alone one night (I don´t think that he liked that I told him that I only had a deck of cards and a kilo of tortillas in my backpack.) He gave me the slightest of a hassle, until he only fount the baraja and the kilo, but didn´t even ask where I was from or for my papers. Although they may have Uzis or tactical shotguns, they´re always last to the scene. . . but they were some damn good tacos!

10 March 2009

One Neat Shot























Rey Christo, Cerro El Cubilete
Silao, Gto.

08 March 2009

Captain´s Log: On to Cubilete

After a successful mid-morning in the boot managerie that is León, we decided to continue on to the Cerro del Cubilete. Not only is the 9,000ft. Cubilete located in the geographic center of Mexico, but is also home to the massive 75ft. Cristo Rey statue. An hour out of León and we arrived the base of the cerro, thinking we´d be up the mountain in a matter of minutes. An hour later and the back of the giant Christ was getting clearer into view. We were carefully dodging the begging children, the peregrinos and the thousand foot drops on the hairpin turns when his face came into view. Now, I don´t consider myself an overly-religious person, but something: the aura or the sheer magnitude awestruck me. Another ten minutes and we were face to face with the Cristo Rey. Not only does the tip-top of the mountain house the gargantuan Christ, but at his feet a temple whos roof is accentuated by a crown of thorns as thick as an oak and as big as a swimming pool. Even if you can´t personally identify with the Cristo Rey, the sheer magnitude of everything strikes you. The road to the top is absolutly treacherous, and every inch is hand laid. The Christ itself is amazing, then to think it´s on the top of a mountain, miles away from anything. After an hour of reflection we decided to attempt the descent. We picked up a peregrino from the Valle de Santiago who, for the sake of his pint-sized pooch decided to hitchhike down the mountain. He was a very humble lawyer who had prayed for a safe operation for an aunt. If the aunt´s operation went as planed, he had promised to make the four hour trek to thank the Cristo Rey. The operation went off without a hitch and he had ascended as promised. I joked that it was a good thing that he hadn´t promise the walk down; he replied that some might say that he didn´t complete the whole peregrinación, but in his line of work there were no fuzzy lines, and he had promised to walk up to the Cubilete, and had said nothing of the walk down! We reached the base of the mountain with just enough gas to get to the closest Pemex, and we were on our way to Guanajuato.

03 March 2009

Captain´s Log: Bonito León Guanajuato...

I finally had the chance to visit a good friend of mine. Eloy, or so he is called, lives about 3.5 hours from Temascalcingo in the city of Celaya, Guanajuato. I left friday night after classes and rolled into Celaya at about 10:30pm. In the darkness I really couldn´t get a good feel for the city (and it is rather large) but Saturday morning we took to the road. My first impression: Tucson, Arizona; except the Mexicans here are legal. Truly a dismal place. Flat, with mountains in the distance, smoggy, and a car dealership on every corner of the main drag, with streets leading to various ventricles of the city. To be honest it felt like an American town, at least how it was laid out, average to say the least. The our tour began: To the left the Universidad de Celaya, to the right the Campbell's soup factory, the Peugeot dealership, can´t miss it Home Depot, and the house at the end of the street where narcos left three men in 20 paper bags (you do the math). I loved it more by the minute. The journey continued through Cortazar, Salamanca, Irapuato, Silao and finally the the heart of the tanner's pride: León. We were only a few minutes into León when we came across the coveted Plaza del Zapato, the plaza greatly under-exaggerated, about six square blocks of pure shoes, boots, sandels, belts, wallets, jackets, and anything else leather. I had my heart set on a nice set of boots, not too picuda but just enough to give me the bad-ass image I´ve never rightfully earned. The first store had a great pair at a great price, but not my size (surprise surprise). The beautiful thing about these vendors is that they work in teams: if they don´t have a specific product, they´ll grab your arm and swiftly guide you to some backroom of some other puesto and have you talk to another of their "friends" who always has exactly what you´re looking for. So this friend asked me what I was looking for and joking I said "unas botas de rana" (frog skin boots) and before I had time to smile at my attempted joke the man was off. Where could he possibly have gone? Frog skin boots were the most ridiculous thing I'd ever joked about. Less than seven minutes later the man was back and very apologetic - "Lo siento señor, solo tenemos de sapo" (sorry sir, we only have toad skin) and before I could laugh, he continued "y te olvidé preguntar si queria con cabeza o solitas..." (and, I forgot to ask you if you wanted those boots with or without the heads) and with that produced two pairs of toad skin boots. The first pair, without the head, a most brilliant vermillion, and the second, a most refreshing green, with the head carefully centered just above the pointy toe. The boss came over and explained to me that he only had toad skin, as toads have more skin to offer and covered the entire top part of the foot without having to split the skin, as with a frog. He quickly changed topics to the other fine exotic leathers that he carried: Snake skin, cobra skin, bull skin, manta ray skin, ostrich skin, ostrich-foot skin, armadillo skin, armadillo-stomach skin, crocodile skin, shark skin and then the types of cuts, with the types of toes. He then proceeded to pick out a pair that would fit me nice; a pair of white picuda croc skin boots (see top picture) aside from being incredibly comfortable, they laughably added four inches to my already size 12 feet! The only way I could pull them off would be to join Montez as a percussionist! No, as good as the price was ($1,400 pesos ($100 USD)), I couldn't do it... I settled on a more conventional, still pointed toe, brown cowhide boot. And damn (see above), they look good!